SPROUT

Choose Seeds

Choose the right genetics, containers, and medium for your seedlings.
Consider your taste and growing circumstances.

Drop in Water

Take a look at your water supply.
Drop in Water with peroxide.
Keep the seeds in a dark spot at 70-80°F.
Transplant when they have a taproot or are drowning.

Move to Soil

Transplant the seedlings into bigger containers with fresh soil or hydroponic solution when they have developed a few sets of leaves. Use a high-quality soil mix that is rich in organic matter, and avoid overwatering the seedlings

More Info

Choose Seeds

Genetics Matter

What Kind of Buzz Do You Need?

(It Starts With genetics)

Before you ever touch dirt or water, decide what kind of experience you want from the final buds. Uplifting “daytime” buzz, heavy “couch‑lock,” or something in the middle all come from genetics, not magic.

Look for sativa‑leaning strains if you want a more energetic, creative effect and don’t mind a slightly longer grow.
Look for indica‑leaning or indica‑hybrid strains if you prefer a body‑relaxing, sleep‑friendly buzz and shorter, bushier plants.
If you want medical or gentle daytime use, look at CBD or balanced THC: CBD strains, so the high is smoother and less racy.

Your “end game” (relax, sleep, focus, pain relief, etc.) should drive your strain choice more than a cool name or flashy packaging.

What’s Your Grow Sitch?

(bought/built – inside/outside)

Your space and setup limit what genetics make sense. A stretchy 10‑foot sativa is a bad match for a 6‑foot tent.

Indoor tents/closets: Shorter indica and hybrid strains are easier to manage; they handle topping and training well and fit better under LEDs.
Outdoor yards/patios: Most photoperiod strains do fine if you have long, warm summers and at least 6 hours of direct sun. In shorter or cooler climates, faster‑finishing or autoflower strains help you beat the weather.
Stealth setups: Autoflowers or compact indica‑dominant strains stay shorter and can blend in with other plants more easily.

Match plant size and finishing time to your real‑world “sitch” so you spend less time fighting the plant and more time enjoying the grow.

Regular, Fem, or Auto‑Flower? (pros/cons)

Regular seeds

Pros: Natural genetics with both male and female plants; good for breeding and long‑term seed projects.
Cons: About half will be male, so you must identify and remove them or your buds will get seeded. Not ideal for beginners who just want smokeable flower.

Feminized seeds

Pros: Bred to produce almost all female plants, which means nearly every seed can become a bud‑producing plant. You waste less space on males and don’t need to sex plants early.
Cons: Not great for breeding and can be a bit more sensitive to stress; bad light leaks or heavy stress can cause herms with cheap genetics.

Autoflower seeds

Pros: Switched to flower by age, not light cycle, so no need to change to 12/12; they stay small, finish fast, and are beginner‑friendly. Great if you want a quick harvest or have short summers.
Cons: Usually lower yield potential than big photoperiod plants and less forgiving of major mistakes because their life cycle is on a timer.

If you’re brand new and want buds, feminized photoperiod or feminized autoflower seeds are the easiest entry point.

Buying Seeds Online

(what to look for, what to avoid)

Buying seeds online is normal now, but you still need to be picky.

Choose reputable seed banks or breeders with lots of real reviews, clear strain info, and germination/stealth shipping policies posted.
Look for detailed strain descriptions: genetics, flowering time, expected height, THC/CBD range, and effects; vague “super strong” claims with no details are a red flag.
Avoid sites that copy other banks’ photos, hide their contact info, or offer huge discounts on every single strain with no reviews to back it up.

Stick with stable, well‑reviewed genetics, and you’ll have far fewer headaches in the grow room.

Drop Seeds In Water

Be Careful, Seeds can drown

What You Will Need

(supplies needed)

To do the simple soak method, gather:

Your cannabis seeds
A clean glass or cup
Room‑temperature, clean water (filtered or dechlorinated is best)
A dark, warm place to set the glass (like a cupboard)
Optional: a timer or reminder on your phone so you don’t forget them

That’s it. No fancy gear needed, just cleanliness and attention to time.

A Dark Warm Place

(temp., length, moisture)

Place the glass in a dark, warm spot—like a cupboard above the fridge or in a grow room with lights off.

Target temperature: roughly 70–80°F. Too cold slows germination; too hot can cook the seed.
Time: check them after 12 hours. If you see a small white taproot starting to grow, they’re ready for soil or the next step.
If after 24–36 hours they haven’t cracked, move them to a moist paper towel instead of leaving them in standing water.

Dark + warm + moist (not boiling, not freezing) is the combo you’re after.

Float the Seeds in a Glass of Water

(Be Careful, Seeds Can Drown)

Fill the glass halfway with room‑temperature water—about 68–77°F is ideal.
Drop your seeds in; at first many will float, which is normal.
Tap them gently with a clean fingertip so the shell gets fully wet.

Let them soak for 12–24 hours to soften the shell and kickstart germination. Do not leave them in water for days, because without air they can rot or “drown” instead of sprouting.

A 1/2" Root = Move to Soil

(how to)

Once you see a white taproot around 0.25–0.5 inches long, it’s time to get that seed into the soil before the root curls and gets fragile.

Prepare your seedling pots with lightly moistened, airy organic soil.
With clean hands or tweezers, gently lift the seed—do not squeeze or bend the root.
Plant taproot‑down in a small hole (about 0.25–0.5 inches deep), then cover lightly.

At this point, think “handle like a newborn.” The root is very tender; gentle handling now sets you up for a healthy seedling later.

Move Sprout to Soil

1st Week of Life

What You Will Need

(supplies needed)

For that first week in soil, you will need:

Small pots or seedling cups with drainage holes
Light, organic seed‑starting soil (not hot, heavily fertilized mix)
A spray bottle or small watering can
A gentle light source (LED or CFL) if growing indoors
A thermometer (optional but helpful)

Keep everything clean and ready before you move the sprouted seeds to avoid fumbling with them.

Poke a Hole in the Soil

(not too deep)

Fill your pot or cup with moist soil—again, like a wrung‑out sponge, not dripping.
With a clean finger or pencil, poke a small hole in the center about 0.25–0.5 inches deep.
Do not make a deep tunnel; if the seed is too far down, it will struggle to reach the surface and may rot.

Shallow and snug is better than deep and lost.

Drop a Seed in the Hole

(right side up)

Gently place the sprouted seed into the hole with the white taproot pointing down and the seed shell on top.
Lightly cover it with soil; don’t pack the soil tight, just enough to hide the seed.
Give a light mist or a small splash of water to settle the soil, but don’t flood it.

Roots grow down, shoots grow up—if you get the orientation right and the soil is moist, the plant does the rest.

Be Gentle with the Babies

(care of sprouts)

For the first week, the goal is to keep them alive and comfortable, not to push growth hard.

Keep temps around 70–80°F and keep the top of the soil slightly damp—not soaked, not bone dry.
Put lights close enough that seedlings don’t stretch and fall over, but not so close that they burn (a cool hand test above the plant works).
Don’t feed strong nutrients yet; a good organic seed‑starting mix has enough for the first couple of weeks.

Check them once or twice a day, adjust water and light height as needed, and resist the urge to “help” too much. They’re tougher than they look if you keep it simple and steady.

O.G. GROWER IN A MODERN WORLD

SPROUT

Choose Seeds

Drop in Water

Move to Soil

Choose Seeds

Drop Seeds In Water

Move Sprout to Soil